Explorer Diaries: Argentina's Train to the Clouds
Day 1: Arrive in Salta – Get Your Bearings
Your adventure begins in Salta, the charming colonial city that serves as the gateway to the Andes. Upon arrival, check into a stylish boutique hotel like Legado Mitico, which offers a chic and cosy atmosphere filled with local character. Start your exploration with a stroll through Plaza 9 de Julio, the city’s vibrant central square lined with palm trees and historic buildings. This is the perfect spot to get a feel for Salta's laid-back yet lively vibe.
For lunch, head to Doña Salta and order some authentic empanadas, especially the ones stuffed with beef, olives, and egg — they’re a local favourite.
In the afternoon, take the Teleférico San Bernardo (cable car) up to Cerro San Bernardo for breathtaking panoramic views over Salta. The golden hour light will make the view even more magical, so don’t forget your camera. On your way back down, wander through the charming cobbled streets and explore artisan shops selling handmade ponchos and silver jewellery.
For dinner, treat yourself at El Charrúa, where you can try llama steak — it’s tender and flavourful — and a quinoa salad on the side.
Day 2: All Aboard the Tren a las Nubes!
Day two begins with an early start as the Tren a las Nubes departs around 7:00 AM. Make sure to grab a quick medialuna (Argentinian croissant) and a strong coffee before heading to the station. Booking a first-class ticket is a good idea if you want extra comfort and a better window seat for those epic views.
The train ride is nothing short of spectacular. It climbs over 4,200 metres, crossing 29 bridges and going through 21 tunnels. The landscape shifts from rugged mountain peaks to deep valleys, with the highlight being the crossing of the iconic Viaducto La Polvorilla — an architectural marvel suspended high above a dramatic canyon. The train crew often hands out coca leaves to help with altitude sickness; chew on them if you start feeling light-headed. Keep an eye out for llamas and local herders along the way — it feels like stepping into a postcard.
Onboard snacks are available, but it’s smart to pack your own essentials like alfajores (dulce de leche cookies) and bottled water to stay hydrated. The train returns to Salta by late afternoon, leaving you pleasantly exhausted.
In the evening, keep things relaxed and head to a local dining spot for delicious food and drink.
Day 3: Explore Salta’s Surroundings
On day three, rent a car or book a local driver for a trip to Cafayate, which is about three hours from Salta. The drive through the Quebrada de las Conchas is jaw-dropping, with its dramatic red rock formations that look like the surface of Mars. Make sure to stop at the Amphitheatre and the Devil’s Throat, two impressive natural rock formations that make for epic photo ops.
For lunch, head to Piatelli Vineyards, where you can enjoy a meal with a view. The grilled provoleta (a gooey, grilled cheese dish) is a gues favourite.
Return to Salta in the evening and head to La Casona del Molino for dinner. This is a local peña (folkloric music bar) where you can try locro (a hearty Andean stew) while listening to live guitar music. The atmosphere is lively and authentic, and it’s the perfect way to end a day of adventure.
Day 4: Culture and Last-Minute Shopping
On your final day, start the morning with a visit to the MAAM Museum (Museum of High Altitude Archaeology). This fascinating museum is home to the famous Inca mummies discovered at the summit of Mount Llullaillaco — their preservation at such high altitudes is both eerie and remarkable.
After the museum, stop by the Mercado Artesanal to browse for authentic local crafts. From woven textiles to pottery and silver jewellery, this is the best place to pick up unique souvenirs.
For lunch, try Greeners for a fresh and light meal. Their quinoa bowls and fruit smoothies are a refreshing change after the heavier traditional dishes. If you have time before your flight, relax with a coffee and a sweet treat at El Solar del Convento — their pastries are delicious and the café’s quiet atmosphere is the perfect way to relax before your next leg of travel.
Travel Tips:
Altitude sickness can be tricky when travelling to such high elevations, so stay hydrated and avoid alcohol the night before the train ride. If you feel light-headed, take it easy and try chewing on coca leaves, which are a natural remedy used by locals. When packing, make sure to bring layers — Salta is warm, but the mountains can be chilly, especially in the early morning and late evening. Salta is generally safe for solo travellers, but it’s always wise to stick to well-lit areas at night and keep your valuables secure. Some smaller restaurants and markets only accept cash, so make sure to have some Argentine pesos on hand.
Tren a las Nubes isn’t just a train ride — it’s a full-on adventure into the heart of the Andes. Pack your sense of adventure, a comfy jacket, and your camera — you’re going to need all three! 😎